I’m hopefully still a few years a way from new car but curious is it a CX-5? I always considered that as my next one but if transmission sucks so bad that they can’t keep parts in stock to fix seems 
I’ve traded in several cars and they’ve never done a test drive. I don’t think they care as long as it runs. If it’s 10 years old they’re going to send it straight to an auction.
It’s a 3. No idea about the commonalities between the transmission with the CX-5.
Are we ever going to get a decent 3rd row electric SUV that isn’t tesla? I’m waiting for that for our next one.
Edit: Oh, and that isn’t some high-end luxury vehicle that costs a million dollars. I want like an electric Honda Pilot.
I’m hoping my CRZ will last until I can get a new International Harvester.
Rivian R1S has three rows I believe. But probably not cheap.
Is the Kia EV9 not decent? Car and Driver, and Consumer Reports seem to think it’s at least decent, $50-75k depending on your loadout.
I saw one of these in the wild yesterday and had no idea wtf it was. Was surprised when I googled and saw it was another EV manufacturer.
I think Volvo has a 3 row option in one or more of their fully electric SUVs as well. Might be worth checking out.
They’re fairly popular in my neck of the woods. I was thinking about giving them a look.
Have seen a ton of them in the past couple months now that the SUV is out. Previously they just had the pickup truck. They look really nice from what little I’ve looked into them.
Car and driver said it was a nice 3 row suv but there are cheaper options out there for that. Might be worth looking into.
Meanwhile I just hit 230K miles on my 2004 Honda Pilot and it’s finally become unbearable enough outside to fix the AC
You’re in a bit of a tough spot because no one wants to buy a car that’s not driveable and/or imminently needs a multi-thousand dollar repair job. I thought about this for a bit, trying to figure out what I would do, but decided I don’t have enough information.
Mainly, what would the car be worth (either as a private sale or a trade in) with a good/non-broken transmission, and what would replacing or repairing the transmission cost?
Another factor is the condition of the car besides the transmission. How many miles are on it? How is the body and interior? How are the common wear items, like tires, brakes, etc.? Is there an upcoming major service required (or have you done one recently)?
I guess if it were me and the car was in otherwise good shape, I’d consider fixing the transmission and getting a few more years out of it:
- It’s the cheapest option.
- The new and used car market was bonkers last I heard (this could have changed by now).
- In a few years, there will likely be more/better options in EVs and hybrids.
Anyway, my $0.02.
P.S. It’s “pinion” bearing.
Maybe $10k for the car (only 95k miles), and got quoted $5k for a transmission replacement from a non-specialist shop. Not sure about what a repair would cost from the specialist shop.
Not familiar with that, is it new?
I know zero about it other than that it exists and is a 3 row electric SUV that Consumer Reports and Car and Driver seem to think is pretty good. I don’t think I want a car that big, so I looked no further:
I’m about to buy my first house. I’m more than likely going to do a construction to permanent loan on a new build. I was talking to a loan offer who said I would have the following options for the mortgage.
30 year fixed at 7% or 7/1 ARM at 6.625% and a free refinance.
My initial thoughts are that the difference is not significant enough for the risk and headache of the ARM.
Why couldn’t I just refinance if rates go down on the fixed?
Additionally I’m not putting 20% down. The PMI is only going to be $140 a month on a $600k loan. Is it foolish to just do 5-10% to keep the cash reserves?
I know nothing about ARMs, but the answer to this one is that it’ll cost you a couple-few grand to refinance. Obviously that can be well worth it, but if interest rates start, say, dropping slowly, you may initially get priced out of refinancing, and then you get stuck in a game of how long to hold out for more rate drops vs. getting relief now.
If you do 10% and put the extra 60k in a HYSA with 5% interest you’d come out about $100 ahead on the $140/month insurance, if thats what youre asking?
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I’m not an expert on this but one consideration if you do end up refinancing in a few years and home prices continue to rise until then may be able to get rid of the PMI just by having more equity with the higher appraised value at that point. Obviously don’t want to make a decision where you need price to soar to stay financially stable but does present a scenario to potentially get rid of PMI if I understanding right
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